Archive for the ‘Composting’ Category

University Compost Spotlight: Seattle University

Friday, May 14th, 2010

The first spotlight in what I’d like to see as a series, the Seattle University Compost facility is one I can see other Universities model for it’s simplicity and efficiency. This was the first compost facility I had the opportunity to tour, needless to say my expectations were heightened. Having composting on a campus should be mandated, and Seattle U is a great example of how to get started with pure simplicity.

Walking in you realize just how simple a composting facility can be. It really reminded me of 3 big compost bins that you consequently fill up, walk away from, and by the time you go back to the first bin you filled up- everything is composted! Of course there are a few technological improvements to keep things churning and burning without the need for human touch.

Learning about large scale composting on a “permitting” basis was quite fascinating. Due to city ordinances -  dairy, meat, and post-consumer food (off the plate scraps) make for some pretty serious paperwork and financial hurdles. No bueno!! So the University doesn’t allow it in their compost to keep away the headache. What it amounts to  is pathogens. E-coli being the most common.  Regardless, Seattle University  sends soil samples to a testing facility in Oregon to make sure they stay pathogen-free.

Although not the route they are currently taking, the University’s setup is ready to take on post-consumer foods.  Currently at peak times they are running at half capacity so if they decide to turn that switch on it is within their means of being able to uphold. What it really comes down to is how much of a University’s budget can they put towards composting? The fact they put down $185,000 to get this program off the ground means they’re willing to go far, but permitting really takes the costs to the next level.

 


As you can see with how the compost finishes up in some of the slideshow pictures, a grinder would be very useful to create a finer and more rich soil-like end product. If those melon rinds, pineapple tops, and woodchips were ground, they would allow for a much hotter pile and much quicker turn-a-round. Since they are using the compost as a mulch and aren’t near capacity they don’t need this expensive piece of the picture just yet.

One major benefit of having an on campus compost facility is for the environmental education majors. For that matter, anyone going down a more agricultural route (in my opinion the majority of students!). This allows for caring and interested volunteers on hand to make sure the facility runs smoothly.

With any large program, understanding operations is key. Seattle U has 4,000 undergrad and almost 2,000 graduate. The costs are kept pretty low, with 2 part-time staff, free woodchips, Bobcat gas (maybe $400/year) and some electricity for the blower which runs 24/7.

The compost doesn’t ever get “hot hot” but it always gets above 131 degrees Fahrenheit which is the sweet spot for PFRP, or the Process for Further Reducing Pathogens. Remember that one when you want to get your commercial compost license :). They also never have an oxygen content less than 5% which keeps things cooking, this is in great thanks to the ventilation system (seen in the slide-show). With the amount of oxygen constantly pumping through their piles, Seattle University starts their piles moist, and after seeing the water runoff I’d even say wet.

Of all the issues coming from the municipality the major one is most definitely…*drum roll*…smell. This as noted in the slide-show is somewhat deterred from the 8 foot high cedar wood-chip filtration setup of all air being sucked through the compost. One other main issue is the runoff of liquid from the piles, mostly from fresh piles when they are still at their wettest. There are drains and collectors that keep it from running off into the water systems. Yet another necessity for a permit free compost facility.

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Hot Compost.

Saturday, May 1st, 2010


The quickest meanest hottest way to make compost humus.

Hot composting is also known as active composting due to the high activity you’ll be committing. A compost pile doesn’t get hot by dumping kitchen scraps into a smelly unorganized pile. Preparation is where the concentration of your activity will be. You’ll need organization, preparation and consistent effort to get hot composting to happen the way it should, but the effort is worth it!

The formula is simple- equal Greens and Browns, keep it hydrated, keep it aerated, make it big. (G+B)(H)(A)/V or something like that (if you’ll pardon me creating equations on the fly!).

What allows the heat to really build is the surface area of every particle that goes into active composting-small pieces of green mixed with small pieces of brown. The green feeds on the brown through microbial activity, so the more little green guys gobbling up little brown guys the more heat! Once the pile starts cooking a whole new species of microbes come in and really go to town making compost quick quick quick.

The thing to keep in mind with brown ingredients, the ones high in carbon, is that they’re dead, and dead things are dry. Paper products, dead leaves, fallen blossoms, coffee chaff, wood chips are all perfect examples of dry/brown compost components. You need to aim for a slight moistness like that of a “wrung-out sponge”, a saying any Master Composter will remind you of. If you go too wet you won’t allow any air in. The microbes will be less happy and the stench will be epic. A calculated balance and mindful moderation are key.

The last component here is volume,which can be a tricky one for apartment dwellers. Hot composting may potentially be possible only in an out- of -the -building location. The key size I’ve heard over and over again is 3 feet by 3 feet. Measure it out, it’s a lot of space!  Contact me if you have any ideas or experience in making hot composting possible in apartment/space-limited setups.

 


So then what? Let’s say you did like we have here in this slideshow. Get the whole family or what have you helping cutting mixing watering singing dancing. You empty the compost components  into a bin roughly 3′x3′ and put a damp burlap on top to keep it moist and shielded from the sun. The compost in the slideshow got up over 150 degrees after only 2 days. Hot compost should be around 150-168. Get to 170 and you’re burning up the beneficial stuff. Keep below 131 and you still have potentially harmful pathogens, not to mention a much slower composting process.

Wait, you’re not done yet! Good work but once you’ve hit the hot zone it’ll only last about 2-3 days. Afterward it needs your attention again. The minimum here is flipping and turning once a week. And do so mindfully! The stuff on the outside should now be going on the inside, and likewise.

Keep it up and you’ll have some mighty fine compost in 5-6 weeks or less.

Let me know if you successful made hot compost and I might publish your story. Cheers!

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Mulch mulch…mulch.

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

it's kind of ridiculously amazing

I have gained a new appreciation for mulch. I guess I never truly understood it so it was hard for me to stand up for the cause. I can now stand up.

What is mulch? It’s what lays on top. Lays on top of what? Lays on top of your garden bed, your pathway, a tree-well, playground…you get the idea. Why is it so great? Glad you asked.

  • Moisture. It keeps moisture in the soil where the roots of your plants can use it. Otherwise it could just evaporate away!
  • Warmth. Many types of mulch are dark, thus attracting light and keeping the soil warm and active for microorganism activity. Mulch is also a protective layer from the elements, keeping things stable, comfortable, and yes, warm.
  • Habitat. Beneficial bugs and critters make homes in your mulch!
  • Weeds. The little buggers will think twice about sprouting where there’s no room to do so!
  • Decoration. Experienced gardeners will pay more notice to this. But experimenting with colors and textures and patterns and plants, mulch has great value in all visual garden creation.
  • Nutrients. Depending on the mulch you use you can even add beneficial nutrients back into your soil. For example, having a high in nitrogen mulch would make some very happy veggie starts. As your mulch breaks down, the soil is replenished. Woody mulches are best for your woody plants.
  • Erosion. Heavy rains can create many issues on your garden soil. Adding a mulch protective shell saves the home of your plants roots from being washed away. Or burnt away by the sun for that matter!

But “What to use as a mulch?” There are numerous options of what to use for your mulch. Most of which are free and organic! First off- compost :). But also, leaves, wood chips, newspaper, leaves, coffee grounds, straw, cardboard, pine cones. Once you understand the rules you can play the mulch game any way you’d like. The key is to get started right away.

The phrase to know here is “Fear no mulch.” The chances are is that no matter what you end up choosing you’ll more than likely be alright.

There is also the wonderful living mulch of Cover Crops! Great for use during the over season (winter). Cheers!

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Simple Style Composter Upgraded!

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

The following is from BalconyCompost fan Alex of Toronto. She is new to the composting scene and made her own custom features to the Simple Style Composter. An early spring in Toronto means some cold compost, here’s what she had to say:

“There has been a bit of a stall due to cold weather the last week or so. I went to add green material yesterday and change buckets, but everything was frozen. Good thing I haven’t bought the worms yet. For brown material I used the shredded paper from my document shredder after doing some research into whether or not it was a good source. Turns out that it is, and I have an abundance of paper shreddings. To turn the bucket once a week, I just dump one into the other. I’ve been doing it after carrying a batch of green material out in the small plastic ice cream bucket I keep on the kitchen counter for food scraps. It serves as a scoop to help transfer material from one bucket to the other.

The buckets are white, but I just painted them black to help them absorb the sun’s heat the compost and cause it to break down more quickly. Sadly, I am running out of room already! I hope the warm weather we are getting now will cause the process to move faster. I would hate to have to dump my green material back into the garbage bin.”

I let her know that running out of room is one of the number one concerns of the Simple Style Composter. Once you fill up one of the buckets you are down to just one bucket without being able to turn it unless of course you go with a third bucket. Time to become friends with a gardener and share your bounty for barter! Also it is a good time to start looking at worms a secondary output for your kitchen scraps. It’s always good to have your buckets for easy drop off access and any composting experimentation you can think of. Not to mention how nice they are to keep your worms safe over the winter!

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Carbon Nitrogen Ratio

Monday, March 30th, 2009

Some of you may have noticed talk of Carbon Nitrogen (C/N) ratios being thrown around like it’s going out of style in the world of compost. But what’s it all about? Is it even important? If so, how can I use it to my advantage? Well look no further.

All organic material and otherwise have a defined C/N ratio. This is pointing to whether a specific item is high in carbon or high in nitrogen. When an item is considered to be high in carbon it is also considered to be “brown.” And likewise, when high in nitrogen the item is considered to be “green.” Simple enough.

Next step here is to figure out what a C/N ratio is and what numbers mean it’s high in carbon or high in nitrogren. Let’s take a tomato vs. a nut shell for our example. Tomatoes have on average a C\N ratio of 15. Meaning for every 15 parts of carbon there is 1 part nitrogen. Seems high right? Well a nut shell has a C\N ratio of 60. So the carbon:nitrogen is 60:1. So yes, even the materials high in nitrogen have a much higher carbon component than nitrogen.

So where is the line between Green and Brown? I’ve read on some sources that 30 is the line, and I’ve read some places that say 25. So we’re going to say between 25-30 is considered ‘Neutral’. Below 25 is considered ‘Green’ and Above 30 is ‘Brown’. And what you’re looking to do is have your compost in the bin in the neutral line. So you’re in a constant game to keep the two amounts even.

The big question here is “how am I supposed to know what the C/N ratio is of any particular item?” Well, other than taking it to a Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory you can take advantage of the leg work I’ve done in the “What to compost” section of the website. Which I have gotten from various sources including this one. If anyone else reading has some more resources for more c\n numbers please comment them below!

Now does anyone really expect you to do this C/N thing perfectly and have the perfect neutral mix of your compost? No! I’m certain I don’t have it down. In fact it’s kind of confusing and I feel like I have way too much carbon most of the time and still want to add more paper to soak up some of the moisture! The key is to keep in mind what you typically compost, and think of it by weight knowing that the greens are probably going to weigh a lot due to water saturation. Add some dead things or shredded up stuff to help keep the ratio and suck up the smells and you’re good to go :)

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The Compost Calcium Fertilizer

Saturday, February 7th, 2009


ESCET

Now this is a trick that I picked up from a published gardener while I was on a backpacking trip with Sierra Club Outings. I mentioned I did this compost blog and we started really getting into our favorite practices. This is hers that I now have fully encapsulated into my own.

You may have heard that there is a known lack of calcium within our soils causing our plants to suffer from a sort of calcium deficiency. In fact some fertilizers with a more than healthy dosage of potassium or nitrogen can be the causers of this issue.

So what do you do? Why you create the Egg-Shell Calcium Enrichment Treatment! ESCET! Or ‘escet’ if you prefer.

Now instead of throwing away or doing the normal composting with your egg shells, let’s try out a new technique. Have a small jar or ceramic container to place your egg shells (preferably washed, but not mandatory) then use an unobtrusive beating tool to smash down the egg shells into tiny bits on the bottom. My beating tool is a bottle opener.

ESCET

ESCET

This way they will be compacted allowing for more room, as well as 1 step closer to becoming paste. When you are about half full with your container or at a level where you feel it sufficient we will commence with our finishing grind of the egg shells. This is best done in a style similar to grinding corn meal from corn kernels. But being that I’ve never done such a thing I will probably just put it in a big ceramic bowl, take the back-end of some tool I have and go to town. Like this:

I will then dilute the paste into my watering vase and further the lives and lusciousness of my beautiful plants! Another option is to use it as a mulch right on top of your garden beds. And yet another is mix it in around the roots allowing for better water to flow through your soil.

My ESCET Container sits proudly on top of my oven where I won't forget :)

My ESCET Container sits proudly on top of my oven

For urban composters such as myself this technique is perfect because I can still compost, creating something worthwhile and usable, while not having to worry about space requirements, smell, or putting something outside when I’m lazy, and it’s cold.

Another worthwhile benefit to note is that worms don’t enjoy feeding on half-broken egg shells in their bin. They much prefer things broken down before inhaling them. SO, use this technique for all of your egg shells and then add some to your worms with some water later in the month, they’ll thank you for it.

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Winter Worm Warriors

Saturday, January 31st, 2009

Worms are a simple creature from the outside and it’s easy to think that they are fragile and weak. I thought so too! In fact I thought I had killed my worms in the frozen dead of winter here in Denver Colorado. My compost bin was frozen solid! I even poured some hot water over the bin at one point when it was 15 degrees to help thaw them out and hope for a warm day soon to keep it thawed, but it dipped down lower and I thought they were gone for good.

But then it got warmer! As it often does here in Denver, popping into the 60s! So I decided to dig around in the ‘ol bin and see if I could spot any live ones or if they were all sadly composting themselves into the dirt they so long to make. To my surprise I was able to find about 11 thick and juicy guys right on the top stack of the bins and now I have them saved in a 5 gallon bucket in the closet until the spring arrives again. Of course I filled up the bucket with some things for them to work on in the time being.

Do not underestimate the power of the red worm! They are a lot more complex than you think! See visual:

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Composting Biodegradable Cups

Sunday, July 27th, 2008


We’ve all seem them by now. Those neat plastic-ware items like Corn Cups that say biodegradable on the bottom. Uber chic at any outdoor event I assure you. But before becoming comfortable plopping them in the ‘ol worm bin I had to do my due diligence of a compost professional. My report to you:

May it be known to all that composting of these biodegradable cups (and other plastic-ware) is indeed safe for your home composting setup if you’re willing to put the work in. I myself don’t do it. Depending on the item and method these items will take anywhere from 3-12 months. Earthworms will (more…)

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Aerate those Scraps

Thursday, June 12th, 2008

Helpful hints!

One of the most fundamental principles of creating compost in the quickest fashion in aerating your pile. Also, one of the reasons your kitchen scraps compost in the landfills at extremely slow rates is because they compact everything so much it doesn’t allow for aeration. Let’s not make that mistake ourselves. Here’s what you need to know to make the most out of the air around you.

Different composting methods allow for different methods of aeration. The most notably air friendly composter is the tumbler.

Named after its wonderful ability to tumble your compost in the midst of plentiful air and mix the two together, it is the most aeration friendly composting device you can have. Just give it a swift nudge and your compost is aerated. There are also air holes on the tops and bottom to allow air to move freely through the contraption, and some have compartments to capture excess liquid or “tea” to keep the compost at the right moisture level.

Now as far as using something more like the Simple Style Composter: (more…)

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Got Worms?: New Family Pets

Friday, May 30th, 2008

I don’t care what you’ve heard. Having worms isn’t such a bad thing. In fact, it’s a whole new level of cool I wasn’t familiar with before this recent experience. I feel like I’m a part of a brand new counter-culture of innovative people who find new and better uses for the things they have, do and consume.

I’ve got worms. Eisenia fetida worms in fact. You may also recognize them as “red worms” or “composting worms”. There are many resources of where to find worms: shipped from a website; dropped off at your house; or picked up at a local nursery. I picked mine up from the local nursery City Floral in lovely Denver. And they even came in a little Chinese food to-go box!

The box included “300 Red Worms in various stages (eggs to adult).” I’d say 95+% were alive and kickin’ ready to get their eat on.

The worms most likely didn’t want to stay locked up in that bag much longer so I got to work on my worm bin:

  1. I had already cut up the newspaper for the bedding, so my next step was to add some dirt for worm congestion.
  2. Then to dampen the newspaper and dirt for the happiness of the hungry wiggling worms.
  3. Next, just plop the ol’ worms on top of the dirt in the center of your bin.
  4. Finally allow light (daylight or lamp) to shine on the top of the bin so the worms will start working their way into the bedding. This should only take a few hours max. From that point on make sure to keep a lid on your bin

Tada! Now all that is left is to wait a week (I cheated and only waited 3 days) for the worms to get situated to the new environment and hungry for kitchen scraps.

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