Archive for the ‘General’ Category

University Compost Spotlight: Seattle University

Friday, May 14th, 2010

The first spotlight in what I’d like to see as a series, the Seattle University Compost facility is one I can see other Universities model for it’s simplicity and efficiency. This was the first compost facility I had the opportunity to tour, needless to say my expectations were heightened. Having composting on a campus should be mandated, and Seattle U is a great example of how to get started with pure simplicity.

Walking in you realize just how simple a composting facility can be. It really reminded me of 3 big compost bins that you consequently fill up, walk away from, and by the time you go back to the first bin you filled up- everything is composted! Of course there are a few technological improvements to keep things churning and burning without the need for human touch.

Learning about large scale composting on a “permitting” basis was quite fascinating. Due to city ordinances -  dairy, meat, and post-consumer food (off the plate scraps) make for some pretty serious paperwork and financial hurdles. No bueno!! So the University doesn’t allow it in their compost to keep away the headache. What it amounts to  is pathogens. E-coli being the most common.  Regardless, Seattle University  sends soil samples to a testing facility in Oregon to make sure they stay pathogen-free.

Although not the route they are currently taking, the University’s setup is ready to take on post-consumer foods.  Currently at peak times they are running at half capacity so if they decide to turn that switch on it is within their means of being able to uphold. What it really comes down to is how much of a University’s budget can they put towards composting? The fact they put down $185,000 to get this program off the ground means they’re willing to go far, but permitting really takes the costs to the next level.

 


As you can see with how the compost finishes up in some of the slideshow pictures, a grinder would be very useful to create a finer and more rich soil-like end product. If those melon rinds, pineapple tops, and woodchips were ground, they would allow for a much hotter pile and much quicker turn-a-round. Since they are using the compost as a mulch and aren’t near capacity they don’t need this expensive piece of the picture just yet.

One major benefit of having an on campus compost facility is for the environmental education majors. For that matter, anyone going down a more agricultural route (in my opinion the majority of students!). This allows for caring and interested volunteers on hand to make sure the facility runs smoothly.

With any large program, understanding operations is key. Seattle U has 4,000 undergrad and almost 2,000 graduate. The costs are kept pretty low, with 2 part-time staff, free woodchips, Bobcat gas (maybe $400/year) and some electricity for the blower which runs 24/7.

The compost doesn’t ever get “hot hot” but it always gets above 131 degrees Fahrenheit which is the sweet spot for PFRP, or the Process for Further Reducing Pathogens. Remember that one when you want to get your commercial compost license :). They also never have an oxygen content less than 5% which keeps things cooking, this is in great thanks to the ventilation system (seen in the slide-show). With the amount of oxygen constantly pumping through their piles, Seattle University starts their piles moist, and after seeing the water runoff I’d even say wet.

Of all the issues coming from the municipality the major one is most definitely…*drum roll*…smell. This as noted in the slide-show is somewhat deterred from the 8 foot high cedar wood-chip filtration setup of all air being sucked through the compost. One other main issue is the runoff of liquid from the piles, mostly from fresh piles when they are still at their wettest. There are drains and collectors that keep it from running off into the water systems. Yet another necessity for a permit free compost facility.

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Hot Compost.

Saturday, May 1st, 2010


The quickest meanest hottest way to make compost humus.

Hot composting is also known as active composting due to the high activity you’ll be committing. A compost pile doesn’t get hot by dumping kitchen scraps into a smelly unorganized pile. Preparation is where the concentration of your activity will be. You’ll need organization, preparation and consistent effort to get hot composting to happen the way it should, but the effort is worth it!

The formula is simple- equal Greens and Browns, keep it hydrated, keep it aerated, make it big. (G+B)(H)(A)/V or something like that (if you’ll pardon me creating equations on the fly!).

What allows the heat to really build is the surface area of every particle that goes into active composting-small pieces of green mixed with small pieces of brown. The green feeds on the brown through microbial activity, so the more little green guys gobbling up little brown guys the more heat! Once the pile starts cooking a whole new species of microbes come in and really go to town making compost quick quick quick.

The thing to keep in mind with brown ingredients, the ones high in carbon, is that they’re dead, and dead things are dry. Paper products, dead leaves, fallen blossoms, coffee chaff, wood chips are all perfect examples of dry/brown compost components. You need to aim for a slight moistness like that of a “wrung-out sponge”, a saying any Master Composter will remind you of. If you go too wet you won’t allow any air in. The microbes will be less happy and the stench will be epic. A calculated balance and mindful moderation are key.

The last component here is volume,which can be a tricky one for apartment dwellers. Hot composting may potentially be possible only in an out- of -the -building location. The key size I’ve heard over and over again is 3 feet by 3 feet. Measure it out, it’s a lot of space!  Contact me if you have any ideas or experience in making hot composting possible in apartment/space-limited setups.

 


So then what? Let’s say you did like we have here in this slideshow. Get the whole family or what have you helping cutting mixing watering singing dancing. You empty the compost components  into a bin roughly 3′x3′ and put a damp burlap on top to keep it moist and shielded from the sun. The compost in the slideshow got up over 150 degrees after only 2 days. Hot compost should be around 150-168. Get to 170 and you’re burning up the beneficial stuff. Keep below 131 and you still have potentially harmful pathogens, not to mention a much slower composting process.

Wait, you’re not done yet! Good work but once you’ve hit the hot zone it’ll only last about 2-3 days. Afterward it needs your attention again. The minimum here is flipping and turning once a week. And do so mindfully! The stuff on the outside should now be going on the inside, and likewise.

Keep it up and you’ll have some mighty fine compost in 5-6 weeks or less.

Let me know if you successful made hot compost and I might publish your story. Cheers!

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Carbon Nitrogen Ratio

Monday, March 30th, 2009

Some of you may have noticed talk of Carbon Nitrogen (C/N) ratios being thrown around like it’s going out of style in the world of compost. But what’s it all about? Is it even important? If so, how can I use it to my advantage? Well look no further.

All organic material and otherwise have a defined C/N ratio. This is pointing to whether a specific item is high in carbon or high in nitrogen. When an item is considered to be high in carbon it is also considered to be “brown.” And likewise, when high in nitrogen the item is considered to be “green.” Simple enough.

Next step here is to figure out what a C/N ratio is and what numbers mean it’s high in carbon or high in nitrogren. Let’s take a tomato vs. a nut shell for our example. Tomatoes have on average a C\N ratio of 15. Meaning for every 15 parts of carbon there is 1 part nitrogen. Seems high right? Well a nut shell has a C\N ratio of 60. So the carbon:nitrogen is 60:1. So yes, even the materials high in nitrogen have a much higher carbon component than nitrogen.

So where is the line between Green and Brown? I’ve read on some sources that 30 is the line, and I’ve read some places that say 25. So we’re going to say between 25-30 is considered ‘Neutral’. Below 25 is considered ‘Green’ and Above 30 is ‘Brown’. And what you’re looking to do is have your compost in the bin in the neutral line. So you’re in a constant game to keep the two amounts even.

The big question here is “how am I supposed to know what the C/N ratio is of any particular item?” Well, other than taking it to a Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory you can take advantage of the leg work I’ve done in the “What to compost” section of the website. Which I have gotten from various sources including this one. If anyone else reading has some more resources for more c\n numbers please comment them below!

Now does anyone really expect you to do this C/N thing perfectly and have the perfect neutral mix of your compost? No! I’m certain I don’t have it down. In fact it’s kind of confusing and I feel like I have way too much carbon most of the time and still want to add more paper to soak up some of the moisture! The key is to keep in mind what you typically compost, and think of it by weight knowing that the greens are probably going to weigh a lot due to water saturation. Add some dead things or shredded up stuff to help keep the ratio and suck up the smells and you’re good to go :)

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Aerate those Scraps

Thursday, June 12th, 2008

Helpful hints!

One of the most fundamental principles of creating compost in the quickest fashion in aerating your pile. Also, one of the reasons your kitchen scraps compost in the landfills at extremely slow rates is because they compact everything so much it doesn’t allow for aeration. Let’s not make that mistake ourselves. Here’s what you need to know to make the most out of the air around you.

Different composting methods allow for different methods of aeration. The most notably air friendly composter is the tumbler.

Named after its wonderful ability to tumble your compost in the midst of plentiful air and mix the two together, it is the most aeration friendly composting device you can have. Just give it a swift nudge and your compost is aerated. There are also air holes on the tops and bottom to allow air to move freely through the contraption, and some have compartments to capture excess liquid or “tea” to keep the compost at the right moisture level.

Now as far as using something more like the Simple Style Composter: (more…)

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Composting Class

Friday, May 23rd, 2008

Composting is getting popular! For the first year in the 18 year history of the composting program in Denver they fully sold out their compost classes. In fact, composting in Denver has become SO popular that in order to fulfill the need they added 20-30 classes!

There are two types of composting classes in the area, one is on general composting, and the other on vermicomposting (worm composting). The one I participated in recently was the general, and I’m signed up for the vermicomposting come late-June (so keep posted!).

The general class is as it sounds, and covers the basics of all styles of composting, with a focus on backyard pile styles and general knowledge of best composting practices. They also touched on tumblers and vermicomposting with two gracious leaders answering any questions people had. One was the charismatic and fun-loving composter lady, and the other was an encyclopedia of composting knowledge. Both great instructors that had recently come out of the “Master Composter Program” that Denver Recycles offers along with the Denver Urban Gardens.

Although neither teacher had vermicomposted before I was able to get my questions answered on the subject (more…)

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BalconyCompost on the Radio!

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008

I was recently interviewed on an independent local community radio station about the Balcony Compost Project. For all that are interested here is the interview:

Balcony Compost Interview on KGNU

Approximately 6 minutes long.

The interest is there for this new wave of environmental consciousness, and it will keep growing with our efforts. Share this site with your friends and family and let’s make composting a mainstay in the way we as a society live.

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Catching Rain in Colorado

Monday, April 28th, 2008

2010 Update: There has been recent changes in Colorado’s laws regarding rainwater harvesting use. For a Colorado State guide of nearly everything you need to know go here: CSU Guide

One of the main purposes of this website is to give it’s readers creative ideas on how to use their wonderful new compost soil to make beautiful balcony gardens. Create your own soil, create your own vegetables and herbs, create your own water? Utilizing rainwater catching practices is a great way to reuse nature’s water source. To have your own self-sustaining urban garden it would make sense to intelligently utilize this practice, wouldn’t it? Well here in Colorado things seem to get a little tricky. Let’s investigate shall we? From denverwater.org: Colorado’s water situation (in pdf) and Greywater and Rainwater Harvesting

Harvesting rainwater While this issue is very complex, the bottom line is that it is illegal under Colorado water rights. Although no specific statute has yet been written specifically directed at harvesting rainwater, the act of intercepting and diverting the water could be in violation Colorado water rights. As strange as it may seem, if a person were to capture and divert rainwater it could negatively impact the senior rights of another. (more…)

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